Winter Comforts at the Slurping Turtle

As I've noted in a recent blog post ("Falling Back"), one of the best things about winter is taking comfort in hearty and soothing food. Nowhere is this more apparent than at the Slurping Turtle, a new Japanese comfort food restaurant in River North specializing in dumplings, sashimi, bincho grill and noodle soups.

Take comfort in this bowl during
Chicago's deep freeze. 

Given its proximity to Hubbard Street "to be seen" type places like EPIC (and my natural aversion to these places), I was skeptical at first. However, this all changed upon walking into the warm, inviting and casual restaurant.

The large communal table anchored the dining room and despite the 20 foot-plus lofted space, it wasn't overly noisy. The staff was laid back but attentive, and the wine and sake list was affordable and varied.  

I order shumai at most Japanese restaurants (they are a favorite), and the steamed pork and shrimp shumai at The Slurping Turtle were among the best I've had in the city, especially with a dash of spicy dipping sauce.

The bincho grill plates were small, leaving ample room to sample several types of meat and fish over the course of the meal. We had seared tuna and scallops, both of which were cooked perfectly and enhanced further with the lingering flavor of the charcoal and wood bincho grill. (Interested in learning more about the bincho grill? Check out this great video from Grub Street in which The Slurping Turtle's Chef Takashi Yagihashi explains this traditional japanese cooking method.)

The noodles, although difficult to share, are a must. We tried the Slurping Noodle with tiger shrimp, napa cabbage, fish cake and cilantro. Sharing soup is always a messy endeavor but certainly well worth the effort in this case.

I'm looking forward to going back to the Slurping Turtle in the dead of winter when I can settle in with a fragrant saki flight and a steaming bowl of noodles. While many Chicagoans tout the greatness of deep dish pizza during the winter, I'd argue that the type of meal served at The Slurping Turtle is just satisfying and warming (if not more so). With many vegetarian, seafood and grilled options, it's also lighter comfort food for the post-holiday winter months. Unfortunately, this does not include the Slurping Turtle's duck fat fried chicken dish, which I've heard is as decadent and addicting as it sounds.

In Appreciation: Blackbird

On a frigid January night several years ago, I had one of my first truly amazing dining experiences in Chicago. I was relatively new to the city and was more focused on getting to know my new home through its various bars, more so than its acclaimed restaurants. I guess we all go through those phases.

As it so happened on this night, I received an unexpected dinner invitation from an old friend who was in town for a few days. He recommended we meet at Blackbird. At the time, I remember thinking how the West Loop seemed light years away from my comfortable and familiar north side confines.

Blackbird's gorgeous and understated dining room.

As is the case with friends who you haven't seen in ages, we had a lot to catch up. Lives, loves, careers, families. The high-points, the low points. We sat at the bar in Blackbird's elegant white dining room and caught up for hours.

I remember drinking champagne, eating wild boar, sipping on a west coast seafood chowder and winding the meal down with a luxurious cheese course. I remember the invigorating feeling you get when you pick right back up with an old friend after many years out of touch. I remember the attentive, knowledgeable, unpretentious and wonderful staff.

Most importantly, I remember realizing how much of Chicago there was to see and taste and how much I had been missing. It was a perfect evening, and the first of many special meals I've been fortunate enough to experience. It was also the official start of my love affair with eating out in Chicago, and I'm happy to report that I've returned to Blackbird many times since this first visit.

Earlier this week, Blackbird received a coveted four star review from the Chicago Tribune's Phil Vettel.  Congratulations to Chef Posey and the entire team on this much deserved accolade. Blackbird is truly one of Chicago's treasures that is consistently a beautiful, flavorful and exciting dining experience.

2012 Cooking Resolutions

When it comes to cooking, 2012 is looking to be an ambitious year for the Drunken Goat. Like anything in life, it's easy to get into a routine. There are standby recipes and dishes I come back to time and again. Roast chicken, salmon & spinach, a quick and easy pasta dish are all in frequent rotation (as is the midweek call to Butterfly for sushi and seaweed salad).

This time of year, people like to set ambitious resolutions to quit smoking, lose weight or stop hoarding emails. Ok, maybe that last one is just mine (I can't help it if I'm a digital hoarder).

So what do I want 2012 to hold in terms of food? Of course, there will be eating out (that's a given). But when it comes to cooking, there are a few aspirations I have for the year ahead.  

Image courtesy of Real Epicurean. 

Homemade Pasta: Daunting, messy and time-consuming? Sure thing. Delicious and often worth the work? Absolutely. In a perfect world, I'd move to Italy for a few months and learn the craft of pasta making. Until then, I guess a few winter Sundays hunkered down in my West Loop condo will have to do.

Authentic Asian: Doing more experimenting with Asian flavors and cooking techniques has long been a goal of mine, but truthfully, I've always been a bit intimidated. However, this recipe for shrimp and cilantro shumai from Mark Bittman changed my view and made me think, "Maybe, just maybe, I can make this work."

Soufflé: What's all the fuss about anyway? Something about collapsing egg whites?  Let's give it a shot.

Baking Fundamentals: I've had some impressive baking failures in recent years. In the pre-2004 era, my Dad (a longtime Yankees fan) always remarked how the Red Sox found "absolutely spectacular" ways to lose games. From salty cookies to muffins as dry as the desert to icing that slides off cupcakes, I've found some absolutely spectacular ways to fail at baking. 2012 will be the year I bond with my Kitchenaid and begin appropriately measuring flour and considering ingredient temperatures (both of which I now understand are fairly critical when it comes to baking).

Check back for periodic updates on how the Drunken Goat is tracking against these goals. One thing is for certain: there will be an epic souffle fail blog post in the future.

And finally, good luck to you on whatever goals, resolutions, hopes or aspirations you may have for the coming year (whether food related or not). Cheers!

2011: A Year in Eating

December is always a time for year end lists. Best albums. Best songs. Best concerts. Best new restaurants. Best desserts. Best new bars. It seems like there's a list for everything.  

This got me reflecting on the best things I ate in 2011. But, how to rank? How to compare an appetizer or one simple ingredient to a full entree or ten course prix fix? So in no particular order, the best things I ate in 2011: 

Fresh Brazilian starfruit
plucked right from the tree. 

• The delice de bourgogne cheese plate at Maude's Liquor Bar. Absolute decadence. It was the dish that spurred me to launch The Drunken Goat Dispatches in May, and I'm still in love. 
• The deluxe focaccia at Avec, with taleggio cheese, ricotta, truffle oil and fresh herbs is salty, savory and more addicting than a Big Mac.  
• An authentic Brazilian fish feast prepared by the lovely people at Salto das Nuvens, a small, waterfall-side restaurant, bar and resort located in the Matto Grosso state. It was like being on an episode of No Reservations.
• Fresh starfruit picked off a tree (also in Matto Grosso) and eaten. Nature's sweet tart.  
• Mom's stuffing at Thanksgiving. So incredibly simple (bread, onions, celery, stock and pork sausage) yet delicious and flavorful. The memory of Thanksgiving leftovers is still lingering.  
• Served with crisp sourdough bread, sea salt, parsley and red onion jam, the bone marrow at Longman & Eagle is savory and rich.  
• While I love the cheese and charcuterie at The Purple Pig, the olive oil poached tuna with lima beans, fresh herbs, red onion and vinaigrette is still the dish that I keep thinking about. 
• Fetucine a la Pasquale at my family's favorite restaurant, Pasquale's Osteria in Norwalk, Conn. Homemade pasta, shrimp, ham, asparagus, tomatoes, fresh basil in a garlic red sauce with a touch of cream. It's ultimate Italian comfort food made by Pasquale, a former Vatican chef (more on that in a future post).   
• The lobster roll at B&G Oyster in the South End of Boston served just the way I like it: heaping mounds of lobster, slightest touch of homemade mayo, herbs, S+P, on a butter toasted roll. 
• I'm still blissed out from The Lair of the Minotaur burger at Kuma's Corner. The brie, pancetta and bourbon poached pear made the burger worth the wait...and the calories.    
• The cheese cart at Tru. An unpasteurized heaven on wheels.   
• The hen at Graham Elliot: a savory and memorable dish that embodied fall with every bite.

What was your favorite dish or dining experience in 2011? 

Falling Back

The clocks have fallen back, the turkey has been eaten and the leftovers devoured. The cold Chicago wind is howling and rattling apartment windows. It's before the deep freeze of winter, and the buzz of the Christmas season is just starting to take hold.

This time of year, I always fall back to those things that are familiar and comforting. They are my winter traditions (but are great any time of year actually)...

It's coming.

...Roasting chicken on a Sunday. Braising short ribs for hours. Stocking up on soups, stews and sauces for the cold months (when going to the grocery store is simply not an option). Hunkering down in a cozy, candlelit wine bar. Entire weekends spent cooking and under blankets. Sipping whiskey. Reading a book in a weekend. Baking things both savory and sweet. Eating the same dinner you had as an eight year old (Campbell's tomato soup and grilled cheese). Not worrying about that summer detox diet.

When you consider this, a Chicago winter doesn't seem so daunting (at this point).

Blogger's Note: I reserve the right to completely revoke this blog post come February.

Graham Elliot's Collection

And then once in awhile you a have a meal that is lovely, unexpected, creative, fun and unforgettable. Last week, I made my way through ten courses of Graham Elliot's Collection, one of the restaurant's three coursing options. Clocking in at approximately three hours, the Collection is certainly a commitment for a Thursday night, but well worth it.  

The menu was largely inspired by fall flavors and sensations. The standout dish for me was the hen, which started with a few sips of smoky tea. It tasted like raking leaves in Vermont. Shortly thereafter they presented the hen, which was tender and delicious and not overpowered by the earthy supporting flavors (kale, pine nuts, matsutake).

Graham Elliot's signature deconstructed caesar, rich lobster risotto, savory pumpkin soup and perfectly seared scallops (read: slightly raw in the middle) were also standouts.

I was so in the moment of enjoying this meal that I honestly didn't take any pictures - and I think that's ok.

Of all the fine dining restaurants in Chicago, Graham Elliot is one of my favorites for a few reasons. It's got a casual vibe, but the service flawless. It's flexible - if you don't want to commit to a long, coursed out menu, you can certainly order a la carte. The best part? The front of the house staff will turn up the music on request.

Note: A special thank you to my wonderful GE dining partner, who continues to go out of his culinary comfort zone and try new things. Thank you. You're the best.

The Classics - Part 2: Roast Chicken

After many years of cooking at home, one dish I come back to time and again is roasted chicken. It's a classic and can be repurposed into a multitude of other dishes and cooking staples, like chicken stock.
When I started cooking, my roast chicken was either too dry, too overdone or simply not flavorful enough.

Over the years, and with some inspiration and help from the Ina Garten, The Barefoot Contessa, I've finally perfected my roasted chicken. As an aside, Ina has been roasting a chicken for her husband every Friday night for most of their 35-plus year marriage, so she's kind of an authority on the subject. Here's her recipe for Perfect Roast Chicken.

Here's how I do it:

Roast Chicken a la Drunken Goat

The Bird: If I can buy a bird at the local farmer's market or butcher, that's guaranteed to be more flavorful, tender and delicious than one bought at the store. If I'm buying from the grocery store, I always buy organic, free-range chicken. It's well worth the extra money and peace of mind. If you're not sure what I mean by that, please watch Food, Inc.

The Rub: Combine garlic, rosemary, thyme, sage, dry mustard, lemon juice, salt, pepper and olive oil. Slather on the bird liberally. I like to rub it underneath the skin to ensure it penetrates the meat.

The Stuffing: One or two quartered lemons, stuffed in the cavity of the bird. The aromatics of the lemon make it flavorful, and the juice keeps it moist from the inside.

The Wine: I pour several cups of wine into the bottom of the roasting pan, which also helps to keep the meat juicy. White wine - either the drinking kind or the cooking kind - works well. I tend to prefer the drinking kind for the reason that I'm able to enjoy a glass of wine or two while the chicken roasts.

The Heat: 350 degrees for about 90 minutes (or longer/shorter depending on the size of your bird).

Once the bird is done, let it sit for 10-15 minutes to allow the juices to redistribute. Carve and enjoy with mashed potatoes, greens or pretty much anything.

*******
For Part 1, check out an earlier post on Salade Lyonnaise. What classic dish should I write about next?

Sao Paulo Dispatch

I recently had the fortunate opportunity to travel to Sao Paulo, Brazil -- my first visit to South America. I was immediately struck by the warmth of the Brazilian people, the lush landscape and the flavorful and fresh food around every corner.

While the business trip offered little time for exploring during the day, our Brazilian hosts were proud to show us around over lunch and take us to their favorite local establishments. Like their European counterparts, Brazilians do lunch right. They take at least an hour, even if it's sitting outside taking in the warm spring air.

I didn't see one person eating a sad turkey sandwich on wheat at their desk, and I think they're on to something.

A few other observations on eating and drinking in Sao Paulo:

Coffee in style...at McDonald's?
Delicioso!

• The coffee is among the best I've ever tasted. For many, the venti-sized "to go" coffee is not an option - even McDonald's takes their coffee seriously! I was pleased to see espresso machines in several offices and conference rooms, which naturally got me thinking about whether or not I could perch such a machine on the windowsill of my office.
• The Brazilians love their pastries - especially for breakfast. Chocolate frosted cakes were a regular occurrence at my hotel's breakfast buffet. My favorite was the savory "pao de queijo." This classic Brazilian cheese bread is a breakfast staple and can be small (like an olive) or larger (like a scone). It's texture is light and airy, but it's flavor is sharp and buttery. There's nothing quite like this in the U.S.  
• I was reminded during this trip about how much I love hearts of palm. Whether served grilled with giant capers and a fruity vinaigrette or cold on a salad with parmesan cheese and frites, this vegetables takes many shapes and flavors.  
• Brazilian churrascaria (or what they call "BBQ") is quite the feast and even better than you might have had at similar Brazilian steakhouses in the states, such as Brazzaz or Fogo de Chao in Chicago. Various sausages (including blood sausage), lamb, multiple cuts of beef and the most succulent pork loin I've ever seen crossed our path over the lunch hour. The salad bar was a feast in an of itself.  



Beautiful colors of Brazilian sushi

• 
  
• Even traditional sushi has a distinctly South American flare. One of the most memorable dishes of my trip was a simple salmon ceviche flavored with thinly sliced onion lime juice and parsley, surrounded by salmon sashimi. Clean, fresh and enormously flavorful.  

While my visit was short, I was fortunate enough to try a small sampling of Brazilian staples, of which there are many. There are certain places that you visit that you just know you'll be back. For me, Brazil is one of the those places.

Summer's Last Rite

I guess you could say I'm in denial about the end of summer. This became apparent on a recent Labor Day visit to New England where I corralled numerous family members into indulging in ice cream nearly every day of my visit.

Trapped in time: Ridgefield Ice Cream Shop 

There are few things that embody summer quite like an ice cream cone. There's something about digging into the cold, sweet, creamy delight on a sticky summer night with the sound of cicadas chirping in the background. Be it quietly sitting in the car or at a nearby picnic table while everyone quietly digs into their treasured frozen treat, people have been doing this for generations.

The first stop on my tour was "the route 7 place" in Ridgefield, Conn. My parents have lived in the area for more than 20 years, and no one knows the name of this ice cream place. I recently learned that its official name is Ridgefield Ice Cream Shop (although I'll still call it the route 7 place).

What we do know is that making a stop for a chocolate sundae is a summer ritual. The vanilla ice cream is a thick, creamy soft serve custard that on its own is absolutely decadent. Add in rich chocolate sauce and luxurious whip cream and it's memorable treat that's good in any season. We've been known to make visits in the dead of winter.

Goddaughter Isabelle: my partner in crime at Dr. Mike's.
  

The second was Dr. Mike's in Bethel, Conn. I believe that the good doctor of food can cure pretty much any ailment, so the fact that this place is named after a doctor is just perfect. That afternoon, the assortment of flavors made it a difficult decision - pumpkin? vanilla raspberry swirl? Ultimate chocolate? I opted for chocolate lace: rich vanilla ice cream with chocolate covered hard toffee, which added a periodic cold crunch.

Beyond clocking how many spinning classes I was going to need post-trip to burn off all the ice cream I was eating, I realized I was taking comfort in one of the last rites of summer. Before the leaves started crunching under my feet, before it was time to put away the flip flops, before the cool nights took hold, I was grasping for one last taste of summer.

Kindles and Cookbooks

Wondering what the heck a party
cheese ball is? Look at 3 o'clock. 

Whenever I visit home, I always flip through my mom's 1974 edition of Betty Crocker's Cookbook that she received as a wedding shower gift from my Aunt Cheryl and Uncle Ken more than 35 years ago. I love looking at the retro recipes (fondue, party cheese balls) and always get a kick out of the book's overt references to keeping your man happy through food ("Nothing will warm your husband's heart quite like fresh baked muffins.") While Betty Crocker has evolved since 1974 (she has an iPhone app now, after all), it remains an absolute classic.

I will always own and acquire books, especially cookbooks. There are certain things that should never be viewed on a device. While I love the convenience of my kindle, you need to see the pictures in a cookbook, feel the pages, dog ear menu ideas and most definitely spill on it. This experience just can't be replaced.

Over the years, these are the books that I come back to time and again for inspiration, ideas or a quick gut check on cooking temperatures and techniques. These books have made it through multiple moves, kitchens and cities. It never feels like home until they are unpacked in the kitchen.

The Good Housekeeping Step-by-Step Cookbook: My sister Kim got this book for me when I started cooking in my early 20's. There isn't a season that goes by that I don't reference this book in some way. From tarts to roasts to soups to cakes, this book is a great primer and foundation on how to cook pretty much everything. I will own this book forever.
Favorite Recipe: Sugar cookies  -- a fail proof recipe for a holiday favorite

Barefoot Contessa: I like Ina Garten. I like that all of her recipes typically call for several sticks of butter and some sort of alcohol. I will forever be indebted to her for teaching me how to roast the perfect chicken. Not only are her books absolutely stunning, every recipe is delicious.
Favorite Recipe: Macaroni and cheese -- the mix of gruyere and cheddar makes this the ultimate comfort food. Ina recommends adding truffle butter or lobster for a luxurious way to "turn up the volume."

A Platter of Figs and Other Recipes: I originally bought this book for a friend as a birthday present. Once I started flipping through the recipes, I knew immediately that I'd need to get another copy and keep one for myself. Written by David Tanis of Chez Panisse, the recipes are deceptively simple.The book is organized into six thoughtfully crafted menus for every season of the year, with an emphasis on seasonal ingredients and small, flavorful details.
Favorite Recipe: Ricotta with honey - savory and sweet  and the perfect way to end a meal.

Put this dish in the oven at the start of an NFL Sunday,
and it will be ready for the Sunday night game. 

The Balthazar Cookbook: Written by the chefs de cuisine of the classic NYC bistro, the Balthazar Cookbook is one of the authorities on classic french cooking. It offers gorgeous pictures and (relatively) easy recipes of the restaurant's best-selling plats du jour.
Favorite Recipe: Braised short ribs - I opt to substitute beef stock for veal stock and let it braise in goodness for as long as I can stand it.

What cookbooks and recipes do you come back to time and again? Do you use your kindle or e-reader for new cookbooks? Leave a comment or send me an email, and I'll use your responses in a follow up post.

Why "The Drunken Goat"?

 Image courtesy of The Kitchn

A lot of people have been asking me, "Why drunken goat?" The answer is simple: the drunken goat is one of my favorite cheeses.

It's from the Murcia region of southeastern Spain and is distinguished by its dark purple or burgundy rind. The cheese gets its unique coloration from being soaked in red wine for several days and then aged for 75 days. How can anything soaked in wine not be completely amazing?

Murcia al vino as it's called in Spain is a semi-soft cheese with a mild, yet tangy flavor. It's not going to be a cheese plate scene stealer like a bold blue (cabrales) or a rich, buttery rind cheese (delice de bourgogne or fromage d'affinois). But for me, drunken goat has always held its own in its understated yet extremely flavorful way.

I happen to think drunken goat is best enjoyed on a cheese plate surrounded by fruit, figs and a glass of full-bodied grenache, although it pairs well with virtually everything (as noted in this great post from The Kitchn, "Booze's Best Bud: Drunken Goat Cheese.")

Sins Of Restaurant Service

In a city with so many well-run restaurants, I always find it a bit shocking when I have a meal out that is so epically bad that it leaves me wondering, "What the heck is going on in this establishment?"

I recently scoped out a newer gastropub that opened last fall. An outstanding menu, ample outdoor space and enticing beer and cocktail offerings made it a great option for a mid-week summer night. From service to food quality to pacing, the entire experience was very unfortunate.

While I'm not going to spend this post dissecting what went wrong, the experience did get me thinking about the deadly sins of restaurant service. These are the things that make me crazy when I'm dining out. Granted, this meal didn't have all of the faux pas outlined below, but it was definitely batting .500.

1.  If our water glass is empty, we have a problem. I probably should have seen the writing on the wall when it took 15 minutes for us to even get water the other night.

Overripe, mealy tomatoes make for a caprese disaster.
What a mess. 

2. If it's not fresh, don't serve it. If it's overripe, don't serve it. If the protein seems questionable, don't serve it. If a restaurant doesn't want to deal with these fundamentals, then it should strip down the menu, rebrand itself as a bar and start serving frozen chicken fingers.

3. Don't bring the appetizer at the same time as the entree.  An appetizer is an appetizer for a reason, so pace it accordingly.

4. "Are you ready to order yet?" "Are you ready now?" "Are you done yet?" "Do you want dessert?" The last question is my favorite, especially when we're still working on our entrees. I totally understand and appreciate a restaurant's need to turn tables, I really do. Even if the food is outstanding, though, rushing a diner out ruins the experience.

'"Lay off me, I'm starving!" Don't
comment on how much a
patron orders. 

5. So let's just say it's winter, and the Chicago Bears have lost a particularly devastating playoff game. And, let's just say that three hungry, mildly over-served Bears fans are looking to drown their sorrows in some deep dish on a frigid Sunday night. Making comments such as, "Wow, you guys sure ordered a lot of food for just the three of you..." and "You sure must like to eat" are totally unnecessary. Maybe we want leftovers? Maybe I like to try a lot of different things? Maybe it's none of your business?!  

6. When things aren't going well, managers should acknowledge the issue and do what they can to right the experience. No, a shot of Old Crow will not make me feel better, please just bring me my caprese salad. And, in what universe does a shot of Old Crow go with a caprese salad anyway? (Yes, this actually happened.)

What restaurant service sins make you crazy?

Burger Bliss at Kuma's Corner

The Megadeath burger: bloody and ready
for consumption. 

After five years and three foiled attempts, I finally made it to Kuma's Corner, a heavy metal bar located in Chicago's Avondale neighborhood. It's known for a few things: a cramped kitchen (16x6 to be precise), loud metal music and the best burgers within city limits. 

Kuma's is also notorious for its excessively long waits. Patient patrons can expect to wait more than two hours on a weeknight or weekend to taste one of Kuma's coveted burgers. Arrive hungry and you will surely end up fighting with your dining partner while you're waiting outside on the sidewalk.

I hadn't planned on writing about my visit to Kuma's. It has been covered so many times, and I wasn't sure I'd have much else to add to the discussion. 

However, my Lair of the Minotaur burger (brie, caramelized onions, pancetta, bourbon poached pear) was simply one of the greatest burgers of my lifetime; I couldn't not post about it on The Drunken Goat Dispatches.  

The bourbon poached pear offered
a slightly sweet contrast to the salty pancetta and brie.

The large roll served as a sturdy (but no overbearing) base for the thick, well-seasoned burger. The toppings were perfectly portioned, making for a well-constructed burger that stayed together with every large, heaping bite.

To say that Kuma's set the bar high for all future burgers is an understatement. I admit to even soaking up the extra burger grease with my remaining french fries. I simply didn't want it to end. 

By the Numbers: ElBulli

On July 30, 2011, ElBulli, the famed restaurant of Ferran Adria, closed its doors.

ElBulli is located in a national park on Spain's Costa Brava

In the days and weeks leading up to and following the restaurant's closing, bloggers and food writers around the world covered it at nauseam. TIME called its closing festivities "The Night ElBulli Danced," while Slate celebrated the death of the "I Ate at ElBulli" piece penned by so many food writers. Even financial outlets like the Wall Street Journal and Bloomberg got in on the act.

This is not a post about molecular gastronomy, haute cuisine or the impact of ElBulli's closing and legacy. I've never eaten at ElBulli and certainly never will.

What I did find amazing as I was reading the coverage was considering ElBulli by the numbers:

• Number of chefs: 42 
• Ratio of reservation applications to places: 250:1 (Note: Nearly two million applications are received each year for 8,000 places) 
• Number of courses: 35
• Average length of dinner: 6 hours 
• Cost: $320 
• Number of times ElBulli has received Restaurant Magazine's "Best Restaurant in the World" honors: 5 (2002, 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009; it was #2 in 2010) 

Curious to find out what all the fuss is about?

Anthony Bourdain recently dedicated an entire episode of No Reservation to ElBulli. It was beautiful, poignant and clearly very personal. Read his blog post about the show, A Beginning. An End, for a candid perspective on what ElBulli means to him.

Or you can just watch him make his way through the 30-plus courses here:

The Pizza Predicament

Last fall, a couple stopped me on the street in Bucktown and asked kindly, "We have a question for you. We're trying to figure out where to eat tonight. What's your favorite pizza place in Chicago?"

My response? "Well, that's kind of a loaded question..."

50 States, 50 Pizzas: Pequod's was highlighted
as one ofIllinois' best. Do you agree?

Did they want to eat several slices or one? Did they want to go out afterwards or immediately pass out in a pizza coma? How important was crust to them? Were they thinking classic toppings (pepperoni, mushroom, sausage) or did they want mozzarella di bufala, imported prosciutto and heirloom tomatoes?

I had so many questions.

People everywhere are passionate about pizza. Look no further than the Food Network's recent 50 States, 50 Pizzas feature to see that the nation's obsession with pizza knows no bounds. In Chicago, we're fortunate enough to have a wide of range regional favorites at our finger tips.

With so many options, how do you find your favorite, go-to, standby pizza? This is the pizza predicament, and it's a good problem to have. While the search continues for my go to, here are a few of my favorite, regionally-inspired and crave-worthy pizzas.

This is well worth the extra time on the treadmill.

Chicago: I admit to having a love-hate relationship with Chicago's revered deep dish. I love a good Lou Malnati's uncut pizza during a football game on a Sunday in November. I hate that I can't eat more than a slice or two without immediately feeling like I need to have my cholesterol checked and/or enroll myself into a weight-loss clinic. I love the butter crust and plum tomato sauce. I hate how my skinny jeans fit the next day. Is it worth it in the end? You bet it is.

New Haven: Modern Apizza and Pepe's in New Haven, Connecticut made this style of pizza legendary. As an East Coast native I was thrilled to see New Haven-style pizza at Piece when I first moved here five years ago. With its on-premise microbrewery and live band karaoke on Saturday nights,  Piece in many ways has an edge over the New Haven-based counterparts of my childhood. My favorite is eating the sausage, spinach and ricotta pizza while catching up on the Red Sox on one of Piece's many flat screens.

Quad Cities: I had my first encounter with Quad Cities pizza at Roots on Chicago Avenue in West Town a few weekends ago. I wasn't quite sure what to expect, but I was intrigued by Roots' famous malt crust and assortment of midwest microbrews. My IPA paired perfectly with the prosciutto, mushroom and mozzarella pizza, and the malt crust - with its chewy consistency and slight touch of sweetness - countered the mild heat in the sauce. Other than Pequod's burnt, buttery pan pizza crust, I can't think of another crust that has made an impression on me quite like Roots.

Proof that God loves cheese: mozzarella di bufala campana 

Naples: Anthony Bourdain's recent No Reservations episode on Naples left me craving authentic, brick oven pizza.  Thankfully, I didn't have to look much farther than La Madia in River North to meet this craving. The large brick oven at the heart of the open kitchen and brings a warmth (both literally and figuratively) to the restaurant. Its margherita (mozzarella di bufala campana, tomato, torn basil), Parma classic (mozzarella, tomato sauce, prosciutto di Parma, arugula), taleggio with three-hour roasted grapes and housemade fennel sausage and sweet onion pizzas are all standouts (as is La Madia's pizza fondue).

Whether you're needing greasy salvation after a late Saturday night or looking for a thin brick oven pizza, the options are endless. The pizza predicament is a delicious problem to have, especially in a place like Chicago. The best part? I've barely even scratched the surface here. What have I missed? Leave a comment and let me know.

Why We Eat

We eat for a lot of reasons. We eat to feel satisfied. We eat to belong. We eat to celebrate the high-points and be comforted at the low-points. We eat to be stronger and healthier. We eat to socialize. We eat to explore new countries, cultures and cuisines. We eat because sometimes it's easier to get business done over a satisfying meal versus a never-ending conference call.

Eating gives us fuel to do amazing things like run marathons.  Eating gives us a reason to gather and reconnect. Eating unites us across continents and divides. Eating cures hangovers.

We eat to remember what it was like to sit at our mom's kitchen table. We eat to feel whole again. We eat to feel transported to another time and place.We eat for a lot of reasons...these are just some of mine.

The Drunken Goat Dispatches will explore the joys of food and eating its many forms: fancy meals, greasy meals, classic-comfort meals, healthy meals and long-sprawling-god-I-hope-this-never ends meals.

Thank you for reading and following The Drunken Goat Dispatches. A special thanks also to my friends and family who encouraged me to marry my two passions: eating and writing.

"Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost; united and well-matched they are as body and soul, living partners." ~Andre Simon 

Paris 1906 Lives On

Grant Achatz' Paris 1906 menu at Next might be long gone (we're on to Thailand now), but thankfully this video lives on.  Whenever I need a three minute food escape or a break from reality, I watch this. It makes me feel energized, refocused and appreciative of the things that matter: time spent with friends and family over an amazing bottle of wine and unforgettable food.

I also happen to wish this song soundtracked the movie of my life, particularly the food scenes (ideally done in a well-edited and generously retouched montage).

The Summer Detox, Chicago Style

Each year, Memorial Day to July Fourth is an eating-drinking whirlwind. The weather is warm and the opportunities to indulge are plentiful.

Between the baseball games (hot dogs, beers), barbecues (cheeseburgers, pasta salad), al fresco cocktail hours (mojitos, anyone?) and general indulgences (see previous posts on delice de bourgogne cheese, lobster rolls and one of the most high-calorie salads ever created), I'm about ready for a mid-summer detox.

But how can one detox in a hard-drinking, hard-eating city like Chicago?

Here are a few of my stand-by summer detoxing strategies:

Summer vegetable salad with crab cake.

• Keep it local, keep it simple: Whether you work/live in the city or the suburbs, the access to local farmers' markets is outstanding. I try and take advantage of the markets as much as possible in the summer, but especially so when I'm trying to eat clean, vitamin-rich foods. If it's in season, it's probably delicious. If I'm looking for some inspiration, I'll turn to Mark Bittman's Minimalist archive in the New York Times for recipes and ideas, all of which are simple, delicious and rely on fresh ingredients.
  
• Get it Delivered: Can't make it to the farmer's market? Have fresh, organic produce shipped to your door. Services like Door to Door Organics and Peapod ensure your fridge stays packed fresh with fruit and vegetables.
• Eat the Rainbow: Summer's bounty yields a ton of delicious fruits and vegetables. I try and make my meals as colorful as possible. If your dinner has reds, greens, yellows and oranges, chances are it's pretty healthy.
• Meatless Monday's...Tuesday's...Wednesday's...: When I'm trying to detox in the summer, I try to rely on fish such as tuna and salmon. Both options are light in hot weather, cook quickly on the grill and can be found in most restaurants. Sticking with this strategy was particularly helpful at recent work lunches at Rosebud Prime and Smith & Wollensky. In both cases, I opted for simple, seared tuna dishes in lieue of the heavy (though admittedly delicious) steaks both venerable institutions are known for. I'll get back there for the steaks one of these weeks.
• Sushi: An Eat Out Go-To: Whether I'm meeting a friend for dinner or ordering in, sushi is a healthy, balanced option IF you order correctly. Sticking with simple maki rolls (tuna and avocado, yellow tail and scallion) and sushi/sashimi pieces is key. While it's tempting to order the "Big Macs of Sushi" (Butterfly's Hurricane roll is by far favorite), I find the lighter sushi to be just as satisfying.

Eating light in the summer can be difficult, but when all else fails, turn to the lakefront. Take a long walk or a run or a bike ride. Breathe in the fresh air. Turn off your cell phone. Silence the voices that push deadlines and to-do lists. Ignore emails. After all, that's often what we need a detox from the most.

New England Eats - A follow up

Double lobster roll is twice as nice. 

A few weeks ago, I posted about the ultimate New England meal. As it is summer, the lobster roll and fried seafood cravings continue. 


I recently joined my parents for a leisurely late afternoon lunch at The Mooring in Guilford, Connecticut. The highlight - of course - was the double Connecticut-style lobster roll, served warm with drawn butter on the side.

The cold beer, clam chowder, fried scallops, scenic shoreline and coastal breezes also made for lovely additions to an all around pitch-perfect afternoon.

The picture says it all.

The Classics - Part 1: Salad Lyonnaise

I love the classics: timeless movies (Casablanca, Philadelphia Story), forever-relevant fashion (the little black dress, the Birkin bag) and dishes that have stood the test of time (roast chicken, steak au poivre). While I continue to be inspired by chefs who test different techniques, pair unique flavor combinations and textures, I also appreciate those that can perfectly execute a classic dish (and maybe even put their own spin on it).

Salad Lardon at Les Halles

One my favorite dishes of this kind is the Salad Lyonnaise. It's a classic French dish that will never go out of style. It's like the trench coat of classic dishes: excellent for any season and something you can go back to time and again; it's great for brunch or a night out.

The ingredients are simple: frisee, lardon (thick-cut French bacon, though pancetta and bacon are often substituted), champagne or white wine vinegar, a poached egg and crouton. Some recipes will offer variations on the vinaigrette, adding dijon mustard, shallot or garlic.

The beauty of this dish is how all five ingredients work in concert. The saltiness of the lardon plays off the bitterness of the frisee and the tartness of the vinegar. The richness of the runny poached egg mixes with the champagne vinegar to create a vinaigrette that gently coats the frisee. The crunch of the crouton provides an added layer of texture. Perfect harmony.

When I see this dish on a menu, it's a must order. I've recently visited two restaurants that both served excellent Salad Lyonnaise. This is not surprising given both restaurants' classic approach to French cooking.

On a bright, steamy afternoon in New York City, I visited Anthony Bourdain's old stomping ground, Les Halles. In addition to immediately ordering a bottle of delicious, dry rose (a warm weather must), we ordered their Salad Lyonnaise (or Salade Lardon as they called it). Upon arrival, we dove in, my dining partners graciously allowing me to break into the runny egg - one of the great rituals of eating this dish. It was salty, rich, crunchy, tart, fresh - and not to mention quite satisfying.

Pork belly makes everything better. Especially this dish.

Another restaurant, Maude's Liquor Bar, turned the richness of this dish up even further by adding pork belly instead of lardon. The pork belly was undoubtedly the star of this dish, with its smoky flavor, crispy outside and meaty texture. Maude's also added a brioche crouton, which added another layer of rich, buttery saltiness.

Interestingly enough, I've attempted this dish many times in my own kitchen. It usually comes out ok, but more often than not, it just tastes better at a local bistro, surrounded by great friends, a cheese plate and a bottle of rose.

The Ultimate New England Meal

Eating clam chowder at Fenway Park is one my favorite
Boston traditions.

While The Drunken Goat Dispatches will largely focus on eating and drinking in Chicago, it will from time to time cover eating perspectives from other cities. Last month I had the opportunity to visit Boston. Having gone to Boston University and lived there for many years, it's always great to go back and play tour-guide for visiting friends and family.

While its food scene isn't as dynamic and ever-evolving as it is here in Chicago, Boston does several things exceptionally well: oysters, lobster rolls and clam chowder. Groundbreaking insight here, right?

Since I've moved to Chicago, I've been on a continual quest to find something - anything - that resembles the New England fare I grew up on. This is especially the case when summer rolls around, and I start craving Harpoon IPA, lobster rolls and oysters night and day.

So, in a city where practically every restaurant is claiming to have "Boston's Best Clam Chowder," here are a few of my must-visit eating stops:

Oysters and rose is a great start to any meal.

• Fenway Park: There's a Legal Sea Foods vendor in Fenway Park, and it's one of my favorite places in Boston to get clam chowder. Legal is a venerable Boston seafood chain. Its flagship restaurants - though solid - aren't that special or interesting of an eating experience. However, I do love their outpost in Fenway, with its classic chowder. There's something particularly exciting about eating it at Fenway Park, ideally on a crisp fall or spring night with a Guinness or Sam Adams (both also available at the park). It's also easier to eat soup at a ballpark than you would think.
   
• Neptune Oyster: Located in Boston's charming North End neighborhood, Neptune Oyster is a quaint, seafood haven in the city's Italian neighborhood. Its oyster selection changes daily based on the day's catch, and it typically includes no less than a dozen different kinds of oysters from Rhode Island, Cape Cod, Maine, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and elsewhere throughout the Atlantic.  Neptune Oyster's two lobster roll options (one served hot with drawn butter, the other served cold with the slightest touch of mayo) will leave you making one of the most complex, difficult decisions of your eating life. It's like choosing between favorite pets or children.  
  



Lobster roll at B&G. No words needed.

• B&G Oysters: Led by the creative inspiration of Barbara Lynch, B&G Oysters in the South End is casual, noisy, fun and delicious. The heart of the restaurant is its small, open kitchen. We sat at the bar overlooking the oyster shucking station. I could have watched it for hours. On a busy Sunday afternoon, we went for B&G's Boston-food trifecta: oysters (some briny, some sweet; all New England), chowder (smoky and rich thanks to the welcomed addition of pancetta) and lobster roll (pitch perfect served with house-cured pickles and hand-cut fries). It was easily one of my most favorite meals in recent memory.          

This is just a brief sampling of some of my Beantown favorites. Until my next visit, my quest for lobster rolls and oysters in Chicago presses on...


Where is your must-visit Boston drinking and eating destinations? What about your favorite seafood spots in Chicago? Leave a comment and let me know.

Delice de Bourgogne Seduction

Those of you will come to know that while I love food of all varieties, my most favorite edible is cheese. Hard, soft, salty, mild, goat, sheep, buffalo, cow: I've never met a piece of cheese I didn't like (or at least want to meet). It seems as though the artisnal cheese plate has become a restaurant standard these days. There are a few places in the city that do this exceptionally well. The Purple Pig, Bin 36 and Bin Wine Cafe and Bluebird immediately to mind but certainly there are others.  

I recently had the opportunity to sample the cheese plate at Maude's Liquor Bar, a new, bistro-inspired restaurant and bar in the West Loop with very forgiving lighting, a comfortable and cozy atmosphere and classic French food. It's the type of place to hunker down in during a storm.

Heaven on a plate. 

As it so happened, a friend and I stopped in there on a Wednesday night as one of Chicago's legendary spring downpours was winding down. After sampling their Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Saint Germain Fizz, we turned to Maude's cheese plate and were completely and utterly seduced by the Delice de Bourgogne.

Where other restaurants go over the top with their cheese varieties and corresponding accoutrement, Maude's approach is direct and simple. The Delice de Bourgogne is a rich, buttery cow's milk cheese that's impressive enough to stand on its own. It's pungent but not overbearing. Maude's served a large, oozing wedge of it with a warm baguette and a spread of apples and dijon mustard. The hint of spice in the spread countered the richness of the cheese perfectly. The experience left us wanting more, and we both later confessed we woke up the next morning thinking about it.

I'd like to say that the Delice de Bourgogne was the first time I was seduced by a wedge of cheese, but it wasn't. In fact, I have a long and storied past with Humboldt Fog. A topic for another day.