Sunday, January 29, 2012

Cheese Dispatch: Humboldt Fog

For avid readers of the Drunken Goat and for those that know me well, there's no question that cheese is one of my favorite things to eat. (Look no further than past blog posts such as Delice de Bourgogne Seduction and Why the Drunken Goat? for a brief taste of my cheese obsession.)

When asked what my last meal on earth would be, my answer is almost immediately a sprawling cheese plate with assorted cow, sheep, goat and buffalo milk cheeses and a crusty, chewy loaf of freshly-baked bread. And considering that it is my last meal on earth, there will most certainly be wine present, as well.

A mature piece of Humboldt Fog well into the aging process. Gorgeous
image from Tastings Gourmet Market.
One cheese that would undoubtedly make "the last meal on earth" cheese plate would be Humboldt Fog. Humboldt Fog is a mold-ripened goat cheese from Cypress Grove Chevre, a creamery located in Humboldt County, California.

It is a tangy and creamy chevre with a signature ash vine in the middle. The cheese's ashen features are known to mirror the fogginess of the northern California terrain of Humboldt County.

Depending on where the cheese is in the aging process (young, ripe or mature), Humboldt Fog takes on a unique flavor profile with increasing levels of complexity as the cheese ages. It pairs well with earthy flavors such as mushrooms, as well as sweeter accompaniments such as honey, pears and apples. It is a versatile cheese that can be served as an appetizer or as a decadent dessert course. As for wine and beer pairings, I like a bright Sancerre or an IPA.

One of the other things I love about Humboldt Fog is that Cypress Grove Chevre is a wonderful entrepreneurial story that took shape long before artisanal goat cheese became mainstream. The video offers an interesting and beautiful look at the creamery's early beginnings:



The Drunken Goat will feature this blogger's favorite cheeses as part of a recurring Cheese Dispatch series.  Have any cheeses or pairings you'd like to see featured on the Drunken Goat? Leave me a comment and let me know.

Sunday, January 22, 2012

My Childhood Menu

Earlier this month I had the unique opportunity to eat at Next for its childhood menu (more on that in my Magic of Childhood post). Ever since, I've been thinking about the favorite meals and treats of my own childhood. If I were shaping the Childhood menu, what would be on it?

Fish and Chips at Next Childhood. Far more
glamorous than the fish sticks of my childhood,
but both equally delicious.
While some of these dishes, like the macaroni and cheese, were captured beautifully at Next, everyone has their own meals that defined their childhood.

In retrospect, my childhood menu would look a little something like this:
  • Macaroni and cheese out of the blue box (also known as Kraft Dinner). To this day, this is still a staple in my pantry.
  • Grilled cheese and Campbell's tomato soup. Especially great with generously buttered bread and extra cheese.
  • Lipton's Noodle Soup and Ritz crackers, each with a smear of cream cheese. My mom would make this for me when I was sick, and I still keep a box of noodle soup around for when I'm feeling under the weather.  
  • Fish sticks with ketchup and mayonnaise dipping sauce. Loved it as a kid, but probably wouldn't be caught dead eating it today. 
  • Yodels (frosted, cream-filled cakes). Ditto.  
  • Swedish fish. Still one of my preferred movie theater treats.
  • Pillsbury Cinnamon Rolls. Haven't had these in years, but I have no doubt they'd still be great on a Sunday morning. 
If you were writing the childhood menu, what would be on it? 

Friday, January 20, 2012

The Classics - Part 3: Beef Bourguignon

As I write this, my West Loop condo is filled with the smell of a slow roasting, bubbling dutch oven of beef bourguignon. With the temperature in Chicago hovering around 20 degrees, I love having something warm and comforting like this stewing slowly throughout the course of a lazy Sunday.

Like other classics covered on the Drunken Goat (roasted chicken and salad lyonnaise), beef bourguignon is surprisingly simple and relies of a few staple ingredients and techniques.

Also known as beef Burgundy (its place of origin), beef bourguignon is essentially french peasant food focused on braising the beef in red wine with vegetables, garlic and herbs. Frankly, I'm a fan of any recipe that requires an entire bottle of red wine!

There are many different recipes for beef bourguignon, some more complicated than others. I like this recipe from The Barefoot Contessa, which calls for braising pan-seared beef in a base of thick-cut applewood smoked bacon, garlic, onion, carrots, thyme, beef broth and an entire bottle of wine. Towards the end of cooking, add in mushrooms sauteed in butter and frozen pearl onions. The recipe calls for 90 minutes in the oven at 200 degrees, but I recommend letting it braise for at least 2 hours and then another hour on the stove. This will ensure the meat is absolutely fork tender.

Today I'm serving the beef bourguignon with a side of buttered egg noodles seasoned with fresh ground pepper, chives and parmesan cheese (an unexpected and wonderful idea from my lovely dining partner). However, it's also great with a simple starch such as mashed potatoes, rice or crusty, garlic-rubbed sourdough bread.

Happy winter comfort food eating from the Drunken Goat.

Thursday, January 12, 2012

The Magic of Childhood

Wagyu jerky, truffled oreo, apple-brandy leather
nutella snack back and homemade funyun.
Last Wednesday night I visited Next as it entered its final month of service for Childhood. In the coming weeks, Next will shed its menu and transform into another persona, the famed Ferran Adria restaurant ElBulli.

But last week, it was still about being a kid. The menu was inspired by Chef Grant Achatz and Dave Beran's childhoods in the Midwest in the 1980's, but it had universal elements that kids of all ages and generations would appreciate and relate to.

What I remember most about the meal was the simple details. The fact that Star Wars and Doogie Houser, MD theme songs played as we ate. The sweet note from Mom and folded paper towel in the lunch box. Having to patiently wait for my marshmallow to toast on the fire. The excitement of the unknown - be it opening a present or exploring a winterly forest (complete with the smell of pine and the crunch of leaves.)

It was a whimsical dinner unlike any other I've ever experienced. It made me ache for being a kid again, and a part of me was sad to return to the world where the email is relentless and time seems to pass faster with every new year.

 A most delicious forest. 
Achatz and Beran put it best:

Wonder. Excitement. The feeling of the world unfolding before you in unexpected ways. Discovery. And even fear of the unknown and the future. 



There is a nostalgia we all carry for childhood innocence and naivete. As we grow older, too often we lose the sense that our lives are magical. 


Eating at Next was a reminder about the importance of keeping life magical.