Paris 1906 Lives On

Grant Achatz' Paris 1906 menu at Next might be long gone (we're on to Thailand now), but thankfully this video lives on.  Whenever I need a three minute food escape or a break from reality, I watch this. It makes me feel energized, refocused and appreciative of the things that matter: time spent with friends and family over an amazing bottle of wine and unforgettable food.

I also happen to wish this song soundtracked the movie of my life, particularly the food scenes (ideally done in a well-edited and generously retouched montage).

The Summer Detox, Chicago Style

Each year, Memorial Day to July Fourth is an eating-drinking whirlwind. The weather is warm and the opportunities to indulge are plentiful.

Between the baseball games (hot dogs, beers), barbecues (cheeseburgers, pasta salad), al fresco cocktail hours (mojitos, anyone?) and general indulgences (see previous posts on delice de bourgogne cheese, lobster rolls and one of the most high-calorie salads ever created), I'm about ready for a mid-summer detox.

But how can one detox in a hard-drinking, hard-eating city like Chicago?

Here are a few of my stand-by summer detoxing strategies:

Summer vegetable salad with crab cake.

• Keep it local, keep it simple: Whether you work/live in the city or the suburbs, the access to local farmers' markets is outstanding. I try and take advantage of the markets as much as possible in the summer, but especially so when I'm trying to eat clean, vitamin-rich foods. If it's in season, it's probably delicious. If I'm looking for some inspiration, I'll turn to Mark Bittman's Minimalist archive in the New York Times for recipes and ideas, all of which are simple, delicious and rely on fresh ingredients.
  
• Get it Delivered: Can't make it to the farmer's market? Have fresh, organic produce shipped to your door. Services like Door to Door Organics and Peapod ensure your fridge stays packed fresh with fruit and vegetables.
• Eat the Rainbow: Summer's bounty yields a ton of delicious fruits and vegetables. I try and make my meals as colorful as possible. If your dinner has reds, greens, yellows and oranges, chances are it's pretty healthy.
• Meatless Monday's...Tuesday's...Wednesday's...: When I'm trying to detox in the summer, I try to rely on fish such as tuna and salmon. Both options are light in hot weather, cook quickly on the grill and can be found in most restaurants. Sticking with this strategy was particularly helpful at recent work lunches at Rosebud Prime and Smith & Wollensky. In both cases, I opted for simple, seared tuna dishes in lieue of the heavy (though admittedly delicious) steaks both venerable institutions are known for. I'll get back there for the steaks one of these weeks.
• Sushi: An Eat Out Go-To: Whether I'm meeting a friend for dinner or ordering in, sushi is a healthy, balanced option IF you order correctly. Sticking with simple maki rolls (tuna and avocado, yellow tail and scallion) and sushi/sashimi pieces is key. While it's tempting to order the "Big Macs of Sushi" (Butterfly's Hurricane roll is by far favorite), I find the lighter sushi to be just as satisfying.

Eating light in the summer can be difficult, but when all else fails, turn to the lakefront. Take a long walk or a run or a bike ride. Breathe in the fresh air. Turn off your cell phone. Silence the voices that push deadlines and to-do lists. Ignore emails. After all, that's often what we need a detox from the most.

New England Eats - A follow up

Double lobster roll is twice as nice. 

A few weeks ago, I posted about the ultimate New England meal. As it is summer, the lobster roll and fried seafood cravings continue. 


I recently joined my parents for a leisurely late afternoon lunch at The Mooring in Guilford, Connecticut. The highlight - of course - was the double Connecticut-style lobster roll, served warm with drawn butter on the side.

The cold beer, clam chowder, fried scallops, scenic shoreline and coastal breezes also made for lovely additions to an all around pitch-perfect afternoon.

The picture says it all.

The Classics - Part 1: Salad Lyonnaise

I love the classics: timeless movies (Casablanca, Philadelphia Story), forever-relevant fashion (the little black dress, the Birkin bag) and dishes that have stood the test of time (roast chicken, steak au poivre). While I continue to be inspired by chefs who test different techniques, pair unique flavor combinations and textures, I also appreciate those that can perfectly execute a classic dish (and maybe even put their own spin on it).

Salad Lardon at Les Halles

One my favorite dishes of this kind is the Salad Lyonnaise. It's a classic French dish that will never go out of style. It's like the trench coat of classic dishes: excellent for any season and something you can go back to time and again; it's great for brunch or a night out.

The ingredients are simple: frisee, lardon (thick-cut French bacon, though pancetta and bacon are often substituted), champagne or white wine vinegar, a poached egg and crouton. Some recipes will offer variations on the vinaigrette, adding dijon mustard, shallot or garlic.

The beauty of this dish is how all five ingredients work in concert. The saltiness of the lardon plays off the bitterness of the frisee and the tartness of the vinegar. The richness of the runny poached egg mixes with the champagne vinegar to create a vinaigrette that gently coats the frisee. The crunch of the crouton provides an added layer of texture. Perfect harmony.

When I see this dish on a menu, it's a must order. I've recently visited two restaurants that both served excellent Salad Lyonnaise. This is not surprising given both restaurants' classic approach to French cooking.

On a bright, steamy afternoon in New York City, I visited Anthony Bourdain's old stomping ground, Les Halles. In addition to immediately ordering a bottle of delicious, dry rose (a warm weather must), we ordered their Salad Lyonnaise (or Salade Lardon as they called it). Upon arrival, we dove in, my dining partners graciously allowing me to break into the runny egg - one of the great rituals of eating this dish. It was salty, rich, crunchy, tart, fresh - and not to mention quite satisfying.

Pork belly makes everything better. Especially this dish.

Another restaurant, Maude's Liquor Bar, turned the richness of this dish up even further by adding pork belly instead of lardon. The pork belly was undoubtedly the star of this dish, with its smoky flavor, crispy outside and meaty texture. Maude's also added a brioche crouton, which added another layer of rich, buttery saltiness.

Interestingly enough, I've attempted this dish many times in my own kitchen. It usually comes out ok, but more often than not, it just tastes better at a local bistro, surrounded by great friends, a cheese plate and a bottle of rose.