Best Dishes of The 2012 Hiatus

Work, travel, dinner, work, deadlines, chores, sleep, life...seasons pass and suddenly it's fall. And so is the highly uninteresting story of the Drunken Goat Hiatus of 2012.

I wish I could say the hiatus was spent in the Basque region of Spain learning new cooking techniques and taking weekend trips to San Sebastian and southern France. Sadly, it was not. It was, however, filled with a lot of delicious meals, many enjoyed with wonderful friends and family. Here are a few of the standout dishes I enjoyed most during the blogging hiatus.

Succulent Sicilian pork shoulder at Next

• Spalla di Maiale Brasato at Next: If you asked anyone who went to Next for the Sicily menu, there was one dish that was unanimously agreed to be the best: the pork shoulder. Sous-vide and braised for six hours, the fork-tender pork melted in your mouth with every bite. I'd like to find a way to recreate this dish one day.  
• Taglionini Nero with Crab and Sea Urchin at Balena: This dish is the dish that made me fall in love with sea urchin. After a not so great sea urchin experience at Nellcote (it was paired with burrata, and the texture didn't work for me), this pasta dish finally made me understand what the sea urchin buzz was all about. 
• Burger at Au Cheval: I don't eat burgers very often, so when I do, my expectations are high. Needless to say, this burger met - and exceeded - my expectations. Top it with a runny egg and Au Cheval's famous thick cut bacon to really put it over the top (but honestly it doesn't need a lot of bells and whistles). 
• Butter Cake at Mastro's: This dessert is so good it has a Facebook page for the people who love it. Served warm with a side of whipped cream, I almost had to pay the waitress to take Mastro's signature dessert away from me. 
• Fried Chicken and Mashed Potatoes at The Lady and Sons. Located in Savannah, Georgia, The Lady and Sons is the cathedral of Paula Deen and all things southern comfort food. So much butter; so much goodness, ya'll. While I had to double up on classes at Flywheel Chicago to work this meal off, it was worth every calorie. 
• Secret Hamachi at Arami: Comprised of yellow tail, mushroom and truffle oil, we had to wait a while for this simple yet incredibly flavorful sashimi dish. It was well worth the wait. Truffle can be overpowering if not weilded correctly, especially with a light and mild fish like yellow tail. The restraint demonstrated in this dish made all the difference. 



Crispy, juicy and positively sinful  

• Tea Smoked Duck Breast at Belly Q: Served with sweet buns and chinese broccoli, this dish was so good my dining companions and I ordered a second helping. 

After meals spent with good company and, let's face it, usually good wine, these were the dishes that had me thinking about them the next morning. 

What meals, dishes and restaurants have caught your attention lately? Leave a comment and let me know. 

My Childhood Menu

Earlier this month I had the unique opportunity to eat at Next for its childhood menu (more on that in my Magic of Childhood post). Ever since, I've been thinking about the favorite meals and treats of my own childhood. If I were shaping the Childhood menu, what would be on it?

Fish and Chips at Next Childhood. Far more
glamorous than the fish sticks of my childhood,
but both equally delicious.

While some of these dishes, like the macaroni and cheese, were captured beautifully at Next, everyone has their own meals that defined their childhood.

In retrospect, my childhood menu would look a little something like this:

• Macaroni and cheese out of the blue box (also known as Kraft Dinner). To this day, this is still a staple in my pantry.
• Grilled cheese and Campbell's tomato soup. Especially great with generously buttered bread and extra cheese.
• Lipton's Noodle Soup and Ritz crackers, each with a smear of cream cheese. My mom would make this for me when I was sick, and I still keep a box of noodle soup around for when I'm feeling under the weather.  
• Fish sticks with ketchup and mayonnaise dipping sauce. Loved it as a kid, but probably wouldn't be caught dead eating it today. 
• Yodels (frosted, cream-filled cakes). Ditto.  
• Swedish fish. Still one of my preferred movie theater treats.
• Pillsbury Cinnamon Rolls. Haven't had these in years, but I have no doubt they'd still be great on a Sunday morning. 

If you were writing the childhood menu, what would be on it? 

The Classics - Part 3: Beef Bourguignon

As I write this, my West Loop condo is filled with the smell of a slow roasting, bubbling dutch oven of beef bourguignon. With the temperature in Chicago hovering around 20 degrees, I love having something warm and comforting like this stewing slowly throughout the course of a lazy Sunday.

Like other classics covered on the Drunken Goat (roasted chicken and salad lyonnaise), beef bourguignon is surprisingly simple and relies of a few staple ingredients and techniques.

Also known as beef Burgundy (its place of origin), beef bourguignon is essentially french peasant food focused on braising the beef in red wine with vegetables, garlic and herbs. Frankly, I'm a fan of any recipe that requires an entire bottle of red wine!

There are many different recipes for beef bourguignon, some more complicated than others. I like this recipe from The Barefoot Contessa, which calls for braising pan-seared beef in a base of thick-cut applewood smoked bacon, garlic, onion, carrots, thyme, beef broth and an entire bottle of wine. Towards the end of cooking, add in mushrooms sauteed in butter and frozen pearl onions. The recipe calls for 90 minutes in the oven at 200 degrees, but I recommend letting it braise for at least 2 hours and then another hour on the stove. This will ensure the meat is absolutely fork tender.

Today I'm serving the beef bourguignon with a side of buttered egg noodles seasoned with fresh ground pepper, chives and parmesan cheese (an unexpected and wonderful idea from my lovely dining partner). However, it's also great with a simple starch such as mashed potatoes, rice or crusty, garlic-rubbed sourdough bread.

Happy winter comfort food eating from the Drunken Goat.

Graham Elliot's Collection

And then once in awhile you a have a meal that is lovely, unexpected, creative, fun and unforgettable. Last week, I made my way through ten courses of Graham Elliot's Collection, one of the restaurant's three coursing options. Clocking in at approximately three hours, the Collection is certainly a commitment for a Thursday night, but well worth it.  

The menu was largely inspired by fall flavors and sensations. The standout dish for me was the hen, which started with a few sips of smoky tea. It tasted like raking leaves in Vermont. Shortly thereafter they presented the hen, which was tender and delicious and not overpowered by the earthy supporting flavors (kale, pine nuts, matsutake).

Graham Elliot's signature deconstructed caesar, rich lobster risotto, savory pumpkin soup and perfectly seared scallops (read: slightly raw in the middle) were also standouts.

I was so in the moment of enjoying this meal that I honestly didn't take any pictures - and I think that's ok.

Of all the fine dining restaurants in Chicago, Graham Elliot is one of my favorites for a few reasons. It's got a casual vibe, but the service flawless. It's flexible - if you don't want to commit to a long, coursed out menu, you can certainly order a la carte. The best part? The front of the house staff will turn up the music on request.

Note: A special thank you to my wonderful GE dining partner, who continues to go out of his culinary comfort zone and try new things. Thank you. You're the best.

The Classics - Part 2: Roast Chicken

After many years of cooking at home, one dish I come back to time and again is roasted chicken. It's a classic and can be repurposed into a multitude of other dishes and cooking staples, like chicken stock.
When I started cooking, my roast chicken was either too dry, too overdone or simply not flavorful enough.

Over the years, and with some inspiration and help from the Ina Garten, The Barefoot Contessa, I've finally perfected my roasted chicken. As an aside, Ina has been roasting a chicken for her husband every Friday night for most of their 35-plus year marriage, so she's kind of an authority on the subject. Here's her recipe for Perfect Roast Chicken.

Here's how I do it:

Roast Chicken a la Drunken Goat

The Bird: If I can buy a bird at the local farmer's market or butcher, that's guaranteed to be more flavorful, tender and delicious than one bought at the store. If I'm buying from the grocery store, I always buy organic, free-range chicken. It's well worth the extra money and peace of mind. If you're not sure what I mean by that, please watch Food, Inc.

The Rub: Combine garlic, rosemary, thyme, sage, dry mustard, lemon juice, salt, pepper and olive oil. Slather on the bird liberally. I like to rub it underneath the skin to ensure it penetrates the meat.

The Stuffing: One or two quartered lemons, stuffed in the cavity of the bird. The aromatics of the lemon make it flavorful, and the juice keeps it moist from the inside.

The Wine: I pour several cups of wine into the bottom of the roasting pan, which also helps to keep the meat juicy. White wine - either the drinking kind or the cooking kind - works well. I tend to prefer the drinking kind for the reason that I'm able to enjoy a glass of wine or two while the chicken roasts.

The Heat: 350 degrees for about 90 minutes (or longer/shorter depending on the size of your bird).

Once the bird is done, let it sit for 10-15 minutes to allow the juices to redistribute. Carve and enjoy with mashed potatoes, greens or pretty much anything.

*******
For Part 1, check out an earlier post on Salade Lyonnaise. What classic dish should I write about next?

Summer's Last Rite

I guess you could say I'm in denial about the end of summer. This became apparent on a recent Labor Day visit to New England where I corralled numerous family members into indulging in ice cream nearly every day of my visit.

Trapped in time: Ridgefield Ice Cream Shop 

There are few things that embody summer quite like an ice cream cone. There's something about digging into the cold, sweet, creamy delight on a sticky summer night with the sound of cicadas chirping in the background. Be it quietly sitting in the car or at a nearby picnic table while everyone quietly digs into their treasured frozen treat, people have been doing this for generations.

The first stop on my tour was "the route 7 place" in Ridgefield, Conn. My parents have lived in the area for more than 20 years, and no one knows the name of this ice cream place. I recently learned that its official name is Ridgefield Ice Cream Shop (although I'll still call it the route 7 place).

What we do know is that making a stop for a chocolate sundae is a summer ritual. The vanilla ice cream is a thick, creamy soft serve custard that on its own is absolutely decadent. Add in rich chocolate sauce and luxurious whip cream and it's memorable treat that's good in any season. We've been known to make visits in the dead of winter.

Goddaughter Isabelle: my partner in crime at Dr. Mike's.
  

The second was Dr. Mike's in Bethel, Conn. I believe that the good doctor of food can cure pretty much any ailment, so the fact that this place is named after a doctor is just perfect. That afternoon, the assortment of flavors made it a difficult decision - pumpkin? vanilla raspberry swirl? Ultimate chocolate? I opted for chocolate lace: rich vanilla ice cream with chocolate covered hard toffee, which added a periodic cold crunch.

Beyond clocking how many spinning classes I was going to need post-trip to burn off all the ice cream I was eating, I realized I was taking comfort in one of the last rites of summer. Before the leaves started crunching under my feet, before it was time to put away the flip flops, before the cool nights took hold, I was grasping for one last taste of summer.

Kindles and Cookbooks

Wondering what the heck a party
cheese ball is? Look at 3 o'clock. 

Whenever I visit home, I always flip through my mom's 1974 edition of Betty Crocker's Cookbook that she received as a wedding shower gift from my Aunt Cheryl and Uncle Ken more than 35 years ago. I love looking at the retro recipes (fondue, party cheese balls) and always get a kick out of the book's overt references to keeping your man happy through food ("Nothing will warm your husband's heart quite like fresh baked muffins.") While Betty Crocker has evolved since 1974 (she has an iPhone app now, after all), it remains an absolute classic.

I will always own and acquire books, especially cookbooks. There are certain things that should never be viewed on a device. While I love the convenience of my kindle, you need to see the pictures in a cookbook, feel the pages, dog ear menu ideas and most definitely spill on it. This experience just can't be replaced.

Over the years, these are the books that I come back to time and again for inspiration, ideas or a quick gut check on cooking temperatures and techniques. These books have made it through multiple moves, kitchens and cities. It never feels like home until they are unpacked in the kitchen.

The Good Housekeeping Step-by-Step Cookbook: My sister Kim got this book for me when I started cooking in my early 20's. There isn't a season that goes by that I don't reference this book in some way. From tarts to roasts to soups to cakes, this book is a great primer and foundation on how to cook pretty much everything. I will own this book forever.
Favorite Recipe: Sugar cookies  -- a fail proof recipe for a holiday favorite

Barefoot Contessa: I like Ina Garten. I like that all of her recipes typically call for several sticks of butter and some sort of alcohol. I will forever be indebted to her for teaching me how to roast the perfect chicken. Not only are her books absolutely stunning, every recipe is delicious.
Favorite Recipe: Macaroni and cheese -- the mix of gruyere and cheddar makes this the ultimate comfort food. Ina recommends adding truffle butter or lobster for a luxurious way to "turn up the volume."

A Platter of Figs and Other Recipes: I originally bought this book for a friend as a birthday present. Once I started flipping through the recipes, I knew immediately that I'd need to get another copy and keep one for myself. Written by David Tanis of Chez Panisse, the recipes are deceptively simple.The book is organized into six thoughtfully crafted menus for every season of the year, with an emphasis on seasonal ingredients and small, flavorful details.
Favorite Recipe: Ricotta with honey - savory and sweet  and the perfect way to end a meal.

Put this dish in the oven at the start of an NFL Sunday,
and it will be ready for the Sunday night game. 

The Balthazar Cookbook: Written by the chefs de cuisine of the classic NYC bistro, the Balthazar Cookbook is one of the authorities on classic french cooking. It offers gorgeous pictures and (relatively) easy recipes of the restaurant's best-selling plats du jour.
Favorite Recipe: Braised short ribs - I opt to substitute beef stock for veal stock and let it braise in goodness for as long as I can stand it.

What cookbooks and recipes do you come back to time and again? Do you use your kindle or e-reader for new cookbooks? Leave a comment or send me an email, and I'll use your responses in a follow up post.

By the Numbers: ElBulli

On July 30, 2011, ElBulli, the famed restaurant of Ferran Adria, closed its doors.

ElBulli is located in a national park on Spain's Costa Brava

In the days and weeks leading up to and following the restaurant's closing, bloggers and food writers around the world covered it at nauseam. TIME called its closing festivities "The Night ElBulli Danced," while Slate celebrated the death of the "I Ate at ElBulli" piece penned by so many food writers. Even financial outlets like the Wall Street Journal and Bloomberg got in on the act.

This is not a post about molecular gastronomy, haute cuisine or the impact of ElBulli's closing and legacy. I've never eaten at ElBulli and certainly never will.

What I did find amazing as I was reading the coverage was considering ElBulli by the numbers:

• Number of chefs: 42 
• Ratio of reservation applications to places: 250:1 (Note: Nearly two million applications are received each year for 8,000 places) 
• Number of courses: 35
• Average length of dinner: 6 hours 
• Cost: $320 
• Number of times ElBulli has received Restaurant Magazine's "Best Restaurant in the World" honors: 5 (2002, 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2009; it was #2 in 2010) 

Curious to find out what all the fuss is about?

Anthony Bourdain recently dedicated an entire episode of No Reservation to ElBulli. It was beautiful, poignant and clearly very personal. Read his blog post about the show, A Beginning. An End, for a candid perspective on what ElBulli means to him.

Or you can just watch him make his way through the 30-plus courses here:

The Classics - Part 1: Salad Lyonnaise

I love the classics: timeless movies (Casablanca, Philadelphia Story), forever-relevant fashion (the little black dress, the Birkin bag) and dishes that have stood the test of time (roast chicken, steak au poivre). While I continue to be inspired by chefs who test different techniques, pair unique flavor combinations and textures, I also appreciate those that can perfectly execute a classic dish (and maybe even put their own spin on it).

Salad Lardon at Les Halles

One my favorite dishes of this kind is the Salad Lyonnaise. It's a classic French dish that will never go out of style. It's like the trench coat of classic dishes: excellent for any season and something you can go back to time and again; it's great for brunch or a night out.

The ingredients are simple: frisee, lardon (thick-cut French bacon, though pancetta and bacon are often substituted), champagne or white wine vinegar, a poached egg and crouton. Some recipes will offer variations on the vinaigrette, adding dijon mustard, shallot or garlic.

The beauty of this dish is how all five ingredients work in concert. The saltiness of the lardon plays off the bitterness of the frisee and the tartness of the vinegar. The richness of the runny poached egg mixes with the champagne vinegar to create a vinaigrette that gently coats the frisee. The crunch of the crouton provides an added layer of texture. Perfect harmony.

When I see this dish on a menu, it's a must order. I've recently visited two restaurants that both served excellent Salad Lyonnaise. This is not surprising given both restaurants' classic approach to French cooking.

On a bright, steamy afternoon in New York City, I visited Anthony Bourdain's old stomping ground, Les Halles. In addition to immediately ordering a bottle of delicious, dry rose (a warm weather must), we ordered their Salad Lyonnaise (or Salade Lardon as they called it). Upon arrival, we dove in, my dining partners graciously allowing me to break into the runny egg - one of the great rituals of eating this dish. It was salty, rich, crunchy, tart, fresh - and not to mention quite satisfying.

Pork belly makes everything better. Especially this dish.

Another restaurant, Maude's Liquor Bar, turned the richness of this dish up even further by adding pork belly instead of lardon. The pork belly was undoubtedly the star of this dish, with its smoky flavor, crispy outside and meaty texture. Maude's also added a brioche crouton, which added another layer of rich, buttery saltiness.

Interestingly enough, I've attempted this dish many times in my own kitchen. It usually comes out ok, but more often than not, it just tastes better at a local bistro, surrounded by great friends, a cheese plate and a bottle of rose.