Graham Elliot's Collection

And then once in awhile you a have a meal that is lovely, unexpected, creative, fun and unforgettable. Last week, I made my way through ten courses of Graham Elliot's Collection, one of the restaurant's three coursing options. Clocking in at approximately three hours, the Collection is certainly a commitment for a Thursday night, but well worth it.  

The menu was largely inspired by fall flavors and sensations. The standout dish for me was the hen, which started with a few sips of smoky tea. It tasted like raking leaves in Vermont. Shortly thereafter they presented the hen, which was tender and delicious and not overpowered by the earthy supporting flavors (kale, pine nuts, matsutake).

Graham Elliot's signature deconstructed caesar, rich lobster risotto, savory pumpkin soup and perfectly seared scallops (read: slightly raw in the middle) were also standouts.

I was so in the moment of enjoying this meal that I honestly didn't take any pictures - and I think that's ok.

Of all the fine dining restaurants in Chicago, Graham Elliot is one of my favorites for a few reasons. It's got a casual vibe, but the service flawless. It's flexible - if you don't want to commit to a long, coursed out menu, you can certainly order a la carte. The best part? The front of the house staff will turn up the music on request.

Note: A special thank you to my wonderful GE dining partner, who continues to go out of his culinary comfort zone and try new things. Thank you. You're the best.

The Classics - Part 2: Roast Chicken

After many years of cooking at home, one dish I come back to time and again is roasted chicken. It's a classic and can be repurposed into a multitude of other dishes and cooking staples, like chicken stock.
When I started cooking, my roast chicken was either too dry, too overdone or simply not flavorful enough.

Over the years, and with some inspiration and help from the Ina Garten, The Barefoot Contessa, I've finally perfected my roasted chicken. As an aside, Ina has been roasting a chicken for her husband every Friday night for most of their 35-plus year marriage, so she's kind of an authority on the subject. Here's her recipe for Perfect Roast Chicken.

Here's how I do it:

Roast Chicken a la Drunken Goat

The Bird: If I can buy a bird at the local farmer's market or butcher, that's guaranteed to be more flavorful, tender and delicious than one bought at the store. If I'm buying from the grocery store, I always buy organic, free-range chicken. It's well worth the extra money and peace of mind. If you're not sure what I mean by that, please watch Food, Inc.

The Rub: Combine garlic, rosemary, thyme, sage, dry mustard, lemon juice, salt, pepper and olive oil. Slather on the bird liberally. I like to rub it underneath the skin to ensure it penetrates the meat.

The Stuffing: One or two quartered lemons, stuffed in the cavity of the bird. The aromatics of the lemon make it flavorful, and the juice keeps it moist from the inside.

The Wine: I pour several cups of wine into the bottom of the roasting pan, which also helps to keep the meat juicy. White wine - either the drinking kind or the cooking kind - works well. I tend to prefer the drinking kind for the reason that I'm able to enjoy a glass of wine or two while the chicken roasts.

The Heat: 350 degrees for about 90 minutes (or longer/shorter depending on the size of your bird).

Once the bird is done, let it sit for 10-15 minutes to allow the juices to redistribute. Carve and enjoy with mashed potatoes, greens or pretty much anything.

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For Part 1, check out an earlier post on Salade Lyonnaise. What classic dish should I write about next?

Sao Paulo Dispatch

I recently had the fortunate opportunity to travel to Sao Paulo, Brazil -- my first visit to South America. I was immediately struck by the warmth of the Brazilian people, the lush landscape and the flavorful and fresh food around every corner.

While the business trip offered little time for exploring during the day, our Brazilian hosts were proud to show us around over lunch and take us to their favorite local establishments. Like their European counterparts, Brazilians do lunch right. They take at least an hour, even if it's sitting outside taking in the warm spring air.

I didn't see one person eating a sad turkey sandwich on wheat at their desk, and I think they're on to something.

A few other observations on eating and drinking in Sao Paulo:

Coffee in style...at McDonald's?
Delicioso!

• The coffee is among the best I've ever tasted. For many, the venti-sized "to go" coffee is not an option - even McDonald's takes their coffee seriously! I was pleased to see espresso machines in several offices and conference rooms, which naturally got me thinking about whether or not I could perch such a machine on the windowsill of my office.
• The Brazilians love their pastries - especially for breakfast. Chocolate frosted cakes were a regular occurrence at my hotel's breakfast buffet. My favorite was the savory "pao de queijo." This classic Brazilian cheese bread is a breakfast staple and can be small (like an olive) or larger (like a scone). It's texture is light and airy, but it's flavor is sharp and buttery. There's nothing quite like this in the U.S.  
• I was reminded during this trip about how much I love hearts of palm. Whether served grilled with giant capers and a fruity vinaigrette or cold on a salad with parmesan cheese and frites, this vegetables takes many shapes and flavors.  
• Brazilian churrascaria (or what they call "BBQ") is quite the feast and even better than you might have had at similar Brazilian steakhouses in the states, such as Brazzaz or Fogo de Chao in Chicago. Various sausages (including blood sausage), lamb, multiple cuts of beef and the most succulent pork loin I've ever seen crossed our path over the lunch hour. The salad bar was a feast in an of itself.  



Beautiful colors of Brazilian sushi

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• Even traditional sushi has a distinctly South American flare. One of the most memorable dishes of my trip was a simple salmon ceviche flavored with thinly sliced onion lime juice and parsley, surrounded by salmon sashimi. Clean, fresh and enormously flavorful.  

While my visit was short, I was fortunate enough to try a small sampling of Brazilian staples, of which there are many. There are certain places that you visit that you just know you'll be back. For me, Brazil is one of the those places.

Summer's Last Rite

I guess you could say I'm in denial about the end of summer. This became apparent on a recent Labor Day visit to New England where I corralled numerous family members into indulging in ice cream nearly every day of my visit.

Trapped in time: Ridgefield Ice Cream Shop 

There are few things that embody summer quite like an ice cream cone. There's something about digging into the cold, sweet, creamy delight on a sticky summer night with the sound of cicadas chirping in the background. Be it quietly sitting in the car or at a nearby picnic table while everyone quietly digs into their treasured frozen treat, people have been doing this for generations.

The first stop on my tour was "the route 7 place" in Ridgefield, Conn. My parents have lived in the area for more than 20 years, and no one knows the name of this ice cream place. I recently learned that its official name is Ridgefield Ice Cream Shop (although I'll still call it the route 7 place).

What we do know is that making a stop for a chocolate sundae is a summer ritual. The vanilla ice cream is a thick, creamy soft serve custard that on its own is absolutely decadent. Add in rich chocolate sauce and luxurious whip cream and it's memorable treat that's good in any season. We've been known to make visits in the dead of winter.

Goddaughter Isabelle: my partner in crime at Dr. Mike's.
  

The second was Dr. Mike's in Bethel, Conn. I believe that the good doctor of food can cure pretty much any ailment, so the fact that this place is named after a doctor is just perfect. That afternoon, the assortment of flavors made it a difficult decision - pumpkin? vanilla raspberry swirl? Ultimate chocolate? I opted for chocolate lace: rich vanilla ice cream with chocolate covered hard toffee, which added a periodic cold crunch.

Beyond clocking how many spinning classes I was going to need post-trip to burn off all the ice cream I was eating, I realized I was taking comfort in one of the last rites of summer. Before the leaves started crunching under my feet, before it was time to put away the flip flops, before the cool nights took hold, I was grasping for one last taste of summer.