Winter Comforts at the Slurping Turtle

As I've noted in a recent blog post ("Falling Back"), one of the best things about winter is taking comfort in hearty and soothing food. Nowhere is this more apparent than at the Slurping Turtle, a new Japanese comfort food restaurant in River North specializing in dumplings, sashimi, bincho grill and noodle soups.

Take comfort in this bowl during
Chicago's deep freeze. 

Given its proximity to Hubbard Street "to be seen" type places like EPIC (and my natural aversion to these places), I was skeptical at first. However, this all changed upon walking into the warm, inviting and casual restaurant.

The large communal table anchored the dining room and despite the 20 foot-plus lofted space, it wasn't overly noisy. The staff was laid back but attentive, and the wine and sake list was affordable and varied.  

I order shumai at most Japanese restaurants (they are a favorite), and the steamed pork and shrimp shumai at The Slurping Turtle were among the best I've had in the city, especially with a dash of spicy dipping sauce.

The bincho grill plates were small, leaving ample room to sample several types of meat and fish over the course of the meal. We had seared tuna and scallops, both of which were cooked perfectly and enhanced further with the lingering flavor of the charcoal and wood bincho grill. (Interested in learning more about the bincho grill? Check out this great video from Grub Street in which The Slurping Turtle's Chef Takashi Yagihashi explains this traditional japanese cooking method.)

The noodles, although difficult to share, are a must. We tried the Slurping Noodle with tiger shrimp, napa cabbage, fish cake and cilantro. Sharing soup is always a messy endeavor but certainly well worth the effort in this case.

I'm looking forward to going back to the Slurping Turtle in the dead of winter when I can settle in with a fragrant saki flight and a steaming bowl of noodles. While many Chicagoans tout the greatness of deep dish pizza during the winter, I'd argue that the type of meal served at The Slurping Turtle is just satisfying and warming (if not more so). With many vegetarian, seafood and grilled options, it's also lighter comfort food for the post-holiday winter months. Unfortunately, this does not include the Slurping Turtle's duck fat fried chicken dish, which I've heard is as decadent and addicting as it sounds.

The Summer Detox, Chicago Style

Each year, Memorial Day to July Fourth is an eating-drinking whirlwind. The weather is warm and the opportunities to indulge are plentiful.

Between the baseball games (hot dogs, beers), barbecues (cheeseburgers, pasta salad), al fresco cocktail hours (mojitos, anyone?) and general indulgences (see previous posts on delice de bourgogne cheese, lobster rolls and one of the most high-calorie salads ever created), I'm about ready for a mid-summer detox.

But how can one detox in a hard-drinking, hard-eating city like Chicago?

Here are a few of my stand-by summer detoxing strategies:

Summer vegetable salad with crab cake.

• Keep it local, keep it simple: Whether you work/live in the city or the suburbs, the access to local farmers' markets is outstanding. I try and take advantage of the markets as much as possible in the summer, but especially so when I'm trying to eat clean, vitamin-rich foods. If it's in season, it's probably delicious. If I'm looking for some inspiration, I'll turn to Mark Bittman's Minimalist archive in the New York Times for recipes and ideas, all of which are simple, delicious and rely on fresh ingredients.
  
• Get it Delivered: Can't make it to the farmer's market? Have fresh, organic produce shipped to your door. Services like Door to Door Organics and Peapod ensure your fridge stays packed fresh with fruit and vegetables.
• Eat the Rainbow: Summer's bounty yields a ton of delicious fruits and vegetables. I try and make my meals as colorful as possible. If your dinner has reds, greens, yellows and oranges, chances are it's pretty healthy.
• Meatless Monday's...Tuesday's...Wednesday's...: When I'm trying to detox in the summer, I try to rely on fish such as tuna and salmon. Both options are light in hot weather, cook quickly on the grill and can be found in most restaurants. Sticking with this strategy was particularly helpful at recent work lunches at Rosebud Prime and Smith & Wollensky. In both cases, I opted for simple, seared tuna dishes in lieue of the heavy (though admittedly delicious) steaks both venerable institutions are known for. I'll get back there for the steaks one of these weeks.
• Sushi: An Eat Out Go-To: Whether I'm meeting a friend for dinner or ordering in, sushi is a healthy, balanced option IF you order correctly. Sticking with simple maki rolls (tuna and avocado, yellow tail and scallion) and sushi/sashimi pieces is key. While it's tempting to order the "Big Macs of Sushi" (Butterfly's Hurricane roll is by far favorite), I find the lighter sushi to be just as satisfying.

Eating light in the summer can be difficult, but when all else fails, turn to the lakefront. Take a long walk or a run or a bike ride. Breathe in the fresh air. Turn off your cell phone. Silence the voices that push deadlines and to-do lists. Ignore emails. After all, that's often what we need a detox from the most.